Friday, January 9, 2015

Israel Day 5 (01/09/15)

Another gray, chilly, and damp day. We started with our Israeli breakfast and then set out for the Tower of David, by the edge of the Old City. It's another "wait 10 minutes and the weather changes" day. Showers, a little sun, snain (my word for snow and rain), just snow.

The Tower of David is an important historical and archaeological site. Within its ancient guardrooms, the museum tells the 4000 year old story of the city. It focuses on the central events that took place in the different periods of Jerusalem's history and on the sanctity of the city for each of the three monotheistic faiths. (This was summarized from the brochure.) There are models of what Jerusalem looked like at various times. There is a wonderful model of the Temple which shows features that we saw on Wednesday during our tour of the Old City. And from the towers, there are great panoramic views of the city. Not a lot of captions on the photos as I tried to take photos of the signs that went with the displays.

After climbing up and down stairs and seeing the exhibits, we took the light rail back to the Market. We had hoped to revisit the falafel stand we'd gone to on Tuesday, but he was closed. The market was a madhouse -- to get around you couldn't be polite but had to push your way through. Kate asked me what I could possibly find to photograph that I hadn't on Tuesday -- the stacks of challahs waiting to be taken home for Shabbat dinner. We revisited the  Etrogman's stand to claim our free drink (another etrog lemonade) and got a funny photo of a small snowman decorated with lots of plant material.

Because of the weather (a little rain, a little snow) and the approaching erev Shabbat (candle lighting is 4:12 pm today), a number of stalls and shops were closing. We wandered along Jaffa St. towards Ben Yehuda and found a nice restaurant for lunch. Best part is that it was warm with nice heaters. Then it was back to the hotel. Tonight we'll be having Shabbat dinner at our cousins' home. Depending on the weather, cousin Nati and his wife and son will also be there. I won't be taking photos as our cousins are Orthodox and would not want me using my camera. [Cousins Dani and Nati & Rachel were there, Zamir stayed behind with grandpa. Also Nomi & Zagiv, the newlyweds were there. Ahuva made a delicious dinner. Those of us from the US attempted to explain to Zagiv about the US healthcare system -- he is now much happier about what he pays in taxes towards the Israeli healthcare system and what is covered.]

I included a photo of our "snack" -- a Jaffa orange. I should have included something to give perspective -- it's almost as big as a grapefruit and very, very juicy. Oh, and it's snowing again.


Day 5 photos

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Israel Day 4 (1/08/15)

Only a small amount of snow overnight but a lot of wind. You'll see tree branches and stuff blown around in my photos as well as some mounds of snow. Today was a day of constantly changing weather -- pouring rain, a little sleet, sunshine, wind, light rain -- wait about 10 minutes and it will change.

After another Israeli breakfast, we walked up to the Old City to take a few photos with snow. We then walked to the Israel Museum. You'll see some photos of the Knesset which is across the street from the museum. This is the Israeli equivalent of the Capital. The museum is huge -- we only saw a few exhibits today. Kate and I will go back on Saturday to see more. My photos include some modern artwork, an exhibit on old glass, the oldest masks in the world, Byzantine gold, "Dress Codes -- Revealing the Jewish Wardrobe", and some more.

After hiking back to the hotel we snacked on pita and hummus and then went with Ruthi (SIL) to our cousin Ahuva's apartment down the block. Just a quick cup of tea so Ruthi could say goodbye as other cousins were coming to pick her up and take her to Tel Aviv (they'll be back on Sunday to get us)..

Kate and I then wandered around the shopping areas, ending with a lovely dinner at Cafe Cafe. We both had pasta dishes and, because we walked a total of 11 miles today, dessert.

Forecast is for more rain/snow overnight and snow showers in the afternoon. Hopefully that will not affect things and the places we want to go will be open.

Day 4 photos

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Israel Day 3 (01/07/15)

We were up early as we had to meet our guide by 8:30 am. Ayal is a licensed Israeli tour guide -- this means he's been through extensive training and has passed a test. Not only was he super-knowledgeable, he was a lot of fun. It was an interesting day as it was very windy, rained, sleeted, snowed, and was sunny -- all we had to do was wait a few minutes and it would change. Oh -- and there was lightning and thunder too. As Ayal is a native Israeli, he's not used to the cold (he's lucky he's not in NJ tonight!)

We saw many things in the Old City. I've tried to caption as many of the photos as I could remember. It was very amazing to be seeing archaeological sites that were so very old. And to walk in the area that was King David's palace. Parts of the Bible truly came alive for us. We visited the Western Wall and left notes and put money in the tzedakah (charity) boxes. Lunch was in a little cafe overlooking the City of David. Once again we were given more food than we knew what to do with. That actually turned out to be a good thing as we didn't try to go out for dinner but ate leftovers and yogurt from our room fridge.

It was a fascinating but tiring day, We're not sure what we're going to do tomorrow as the weather is still unsettled -- snow, thunder. Latest forecast is maybe for just a little rain tomorrow in which case school will be in session (it was closed today) and shops and museums might be open. Everyone is complaining about the cold because it is around 30 F -- they don't know what cold really is.

Day 3 Photos

Israel Day 2 (1/6/15) -- The Wedding

Kate and I dressed in our Chico finery, ready to head off to the wedding. Although it was windy, there was no precipitation. Just to explain the family connections: Parents of the bride are Ahuva Passow-Whitman and Jon Whitman, the bride is Nomi. (Ahuva is my husband's second cousin.) Also at the wedding was Eli Passow (Ahuva's brother) and his wife Chaya, Eli's son Nati and his wife Rachel and their son Zamir, and Eli's son Dani. Also Eli's first cousin Mimi.

Ahuva & Jon's friends and nearby neighbors drove us to the wedding which was at a fancy wedding hall in the city of Modi'in (45 minutes with traffic, 35 without, almost to Tel Aviv). It started with a reception (aka cocktail hour) with some yummy food. As we entered the hall there were two ladies by the door with iPads who looked up your name and table number and gave you a card with the number. Next to their desk was a large metal lock box with a slot where you could deposit your card/gift and a bin for any actual gifts.

As expected, the ceremony did not start at 8:15 pm but closer to 9 pm. People were quite casual about the ceremony -- not everyone left the reception area to go to it. First the groom, Zagiv, came down the aisle escorted by his father and grandmother. Next Nomi was escorted about 2/3's of the way down the aisle by Ahuva & Jon. They left her and Zagiv went to her, put the veil over her face, and escorted her the rest of the way to under the chupah. The service, entirely in Hebrew of course, was relatively short, with relatives from both families participating in saying the seven blessings. At the end, many in the crowd rushed to the chupah to congratulate the newlyweds.

Meanwhile, the glass panels in the wall to our left were slid out of the way and the black curtain was raised to reveal the dining area. We sat with Ahuva & Jon, Eli & Chaya, Nati & Rachel & Zamir, Dani, and Ruthi (my SIL). First there was the "salad" course which included many typical middle eastern appetizers. Next came what we thought was the main course as there was a choice of fish, a lamb dish (done like baklava), and a chicken dish but it was only the first course. At that point there was a break for dancing. Initially it was a lot of modernized middle eastern music, though eventually I'm told there was American pop music. Nomi & Zagiv came in for their first dance. This was followed by much dancing and merrymaking -- Nomi was lifted on a chair, Zagiv on someone's shoulders. Then it was time for the main course -- a trio of shish kebab, chicken, and beef. As we were finishing, our ride came to say they were ready to head home. I was disappointed as we were going to miss dessert (which Kate translated from the menu as including chocolate but it turned out there were plates with little squares of chocolate and coffee out in the reception area. We were actually back at the hotel by about 11:30 pm.

Wedding pictures

Tuesday, January 6, 2015

Israel Day 2 (1/6/15)

Our first full day in Israel began with breakfast (see photo for my non-traditional breakfast, although scrambled and hard boiled eggs were available). With my SIL we then took a taxi to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust memorial in Jerusalem. You start by going through a history of the Holocaust with photos, displays, videos from survivors, and exhibits. Incredibly moving. One thing in particular -- in other writings, exhibits, etc., I have seen or read about the Holocaust, they usually refer to people being killed. Here it always spoke of them being "murdered". One of the most moving areas is the Children's Memorial -- it's pitch black with a railing to hold onto as you move through. There are photos of children and what appear to be endless stars (lights) representing each child lost while in the background a voice lists names and ages. (Photos weren't allowed within the exhibits -- I did buy some postcards which I will either photo or scan when I get home and add to this blog).

From there we took the light rail to the Machne Yehuda Market. It is like a permanent Farmer's Market and flea market, some open air, some covered, with twisty, intersecting streets. My SIL bought us tickets for a self-guided tour that included samples from selected vendors. We actually had several meals -- falafel (I've never had such light, tasty falafel); baked cheese with flecks of spinach "pastry" (it's Georgian), and a combo plate of a bouka ("cigar"), stuffed grape leaf, and kusha plus a bowl of soup. We also stopped at a vendor with a variety of spices and teas, coffees, and things. He gave us many sample to try and we bought bags of things to bring home. Near the beginning I had an etrog (similar to a lemon) mint lemonade. We finished with a relaxing mint tea. (Still have a couple bites to get -- will return later in the week.) We started walking back and then took a taxi back.

Jerusalem is in a state of semi-panic. There is a storm coming tomorrow that may include snow. The mayor has already said he will close major roads ahead of the storm to avoid the stranded vehicles they had last year. They've been trimming trees as it will be very windy and last year there were power outages during the snowstorm due to branches coming down. Our trip to Masada and the Dead Sea planned for tomorrow has been canceled. We were able to move our tour of the Old City from Thursday to tomorrow (the bad weather isn't due until later in the day).

Tonight is the wedding. We'll be getting ready to go in a little while. I'll take photos and post tomorrow.

Day 2 photos